Chef's homecoming ; Jamie Oliver is back on native turf to champion British cuisine in his new book and television series. He started off by returning to Essex for its great seafood

At the start of his latest TV series, Jamie Oliver admitted thatit was about time he stopped going off on culinary adventures aroundthe world and celebrated the cuisine of his home country. Jamie'sGreat Britain does just that with the Essex chef pootling around thecountry in his food wagon (a kind of kitchen-shack on wheels),looking not only at traditional British food but all the wonderfuldishes and culinary influences we've absorbed.

Fittingly, he started off in his native Essex and East London,championing not only traditional fare but the great 'immigrant' foodso synonymous with the East End.

Like many Essex folk, Jamie can trace his family's roots back …